Many people come to Hurghada for sun, sea and sand. It’s a mythical city with modern hotels, beachfront restaurants and shiny shops. But one thing I’ve learned over the years is that if you want to feel the real pulse of a place, you have to go to the streets where the locals live, breathe and shop. In Hurghada, this place is undoubtedly Dahar, the Old Town. When I took my first step into Dahar, I felt as if I had stepped into a time machine and traveled back decades, maybe even a century. After the smooth sidewalks of the resorts, I was immediately captivated by the dusty but vibrant streets. For souls seeking an authentic discovery, Dahar is a treasure chest not to be missed.
Why You Should Explore Dahar?
So why Dahar? Because it offers the “real” Hurghada. Unlike the polished tourist-oriented storefronts, Dahar is a city that lives in its own natural rhythm. The bustle of the fish market in the early morning, the heady smells wafting past the spice shops during the day, the mosque courtyards filling up at the evening call to prayer… These are just a few of the experiences you won’t easily find in a resort. There is a story around every corner, and you can see the traces of years on every vendor’s face. Exploring Dahar means touching the deep-rooted culture that lies beneath the modern face of Egypt’s coastline. Personally, when I visit a place, I like to get together with its people and observe their daily lives. Dahar is the perfect place for that.
Everything is so intense that you suddenly find yourself in a completely different world. It is this intensity, this intimacy and this authenticity that makes Dahar the most attractive part of Hurghada for me. Every moment I spend here is in the most special corners of my memory.
Understanding Dahar: The Spirit of the Old City
Understanding Dahar is somewhat related to understanding the history of Hurghada. When Hurghada was first established, it was a tiny fishing village. Dahar is like the core of that village, actually the heart. Over time, the city grew, modernized, filled with hotels towards the south, but Dahar remained the center of life for the locals. It’s a reflection of Hurghada before the tourism boom. So, the atmosphere here is completely different from the energy of Sekalla (the more modern part of the city center) or the new marina. In Dahar, life is slower and people live more traditionally.
This distinction makes Dahar particularly interesting. This is not a museum, this is a living, breathing place. Where children play in the street, neighbors chat on the doorstep, and shopkeepers carefully line their stalls. So, when you visit Dahar, you are actually witnessing an authentic slice of local life on Egypt’s Red Sea coast. This is always much more satisfying for me. I feel like I am taking not only the scenery but also the spirit of the place with me.
Bazaars and markets of Dahar
Dahar’s main attraction is undoubtedly its bustling bazaars and markets. This is a great place not only to shop, but also to people watch, breathe in the smells and get lost in the sounds. Each bazaar has its own unique energy and each is an area of discovery.
Spice Market A Labyrinth of Colors and Scents
The intense smell that hits my nose when I step into Dahar always heralds that I am near a spice market. It is a feast for the senses! Mountains of spices piled high in every shade of red, yellow, brown and green. Turmeric, cumin, coriander, rosemary, thyme, mint… Those whose names I know and those I don’t, all in one place. An indescribable mixture of scents hangs in the air as vendors shovel spices from large sacks and fill them into small bags.
Not only spices, but also dried hibiscus, dates, dried apricots, almonds, hazelnuts, walnuts and nuts, and herbal teas. Vendors often offer small pieces for you to taste. Remember, this is a local market; prices are usually much lower than in tourist areas, but bargaining is part of the job! I often feel like I’m in a labyrinth in these narrow streets, with a new stall and a new smell waiting around every corner. Once, I asked what a plant was that I had never seen before in my life. The vendor explained it to me at length (even though I didn’t fully understand it!), then gave me a pinch and said, “This is good for coughs,” with a smile. That sincerity, that moment itself, was much more valuable than the spices I bought.
Fish Market
Dahar’s fish market is one of the best places to see how the city starts its day. It is incredibly busy in the early hours. The Red Sea’s bounty for the day is lined up on the stalls: fish of all sizes, all colors, shrimps, squid. The atmosphere is, as you can imagine, quite “smelly” and humid, but also full of life. Vendors shouting loudly about their wares, buyers examining the fish to find the freshest, bargains being made.
If you don’t have a sensitive stomach and are looking for an authentic experience, you should visit this place early in the morning. The view is mesmerizing, the sounds are intense but the energy is incredible. Here you can also buy fresh fish and have it cooked in one of the small restaurants nearby, which is a very local experience. I usually prefer to just observe. Just feeling that vibrancy, that moment when the abundance of the sea hits the land is an experience in itself. The shiny scales of the fish, the reflections on the ice, everything is so raw and real that it’s incredible.
Fruit and Vegetable Market
Right next to the fish market is the fruit and vegetable market. This is also a colorful and lively place. Fresh produce from the region or from different parts of Egypt is stacked on stalls. Tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, oranges, mangoes (when in season!), dates, bananas… Everything is so fresh and fragrant. The prices are very reasonable and the vendors are usually cheerful and willing to chat.
It’s a great idea to buy something fresh here and eat it right away. The juice of oranges has a completely different flavor here, and if it’s in season, try the sweet and juicy dates. Walking around the market, you not only see what is for sale, but also observe how the locals shop and interact with the vendors. This is a great opportunity to understand the daily rhythm of life in a place.
Textiles and Souvenirs
In the souks of Dahar you will not only find food products. There are also shops selling textiles, traditional Egyptian clothing (galabeya’s), simple leather goods, household items and basic necessities, mostly aimed at locals or foreigners living in Egypt. Instead of expensive, polished objects like in the tourist bazaars, here you will find more functional or less processed products.
Galabeya’s are comfortable summer clothes for both men and women and can be found here at affordable prices. Fabrics, simple slippers, plastic household utensils and many other items can be found here. This is the place for more “functional” shopping. For tourists, you can also find souvenirs such as simple tote bags and small trinkets, but don’t expect anything like Khan el-Khalili in Tahrir Square. The charm here is that it is more “raw”, more local. I still use the wallet I bought here years ago.
Bakeries and Local Delicacies
If you walk through the bazaars and smell the sweet smell of bread, you know there is a local bakery nearby. There are several traditional bakeries in Dahar and they still supply the daily need for fresh bread. It’s a wonderful experience to buy hot Egyptian bread (aish baladi) and taste it immediately.
Old Mosque and Church
One of the most remarkable spots in Dahar is the Abdul Moneim Riadh Mosque. With its white minaret and imposing structure, it is noticeable even from a distance. Especially during the call to prayer, the mosque’s surroundings come alive. When you approach the mosque, you will see people flocking to pray. If you wish to enter as a visitor, take care to dress appropriately (women should wear a headscarf, shoulders and knees covered) and respect the silence. The mosque’s architecture and inner peace are worth a visit.
Surprisingly, not far from the mosque there is also a Coptic Orthodox Church. This is a good example of Egypt’s religious tolerance. The peaceful juxtaposition of two places of worship in the same neighborhood is an important part of Dahar’s cultural fabric. If you wish to visit the church, again, proper dress and respect is very important.
Local Coffee Houses (Ahwas)
Walking through the streets of Dahar, you will see small, unpretentious coffee houses (called “ahwa” in Egypt). These are usually places where only men sit, drinking tea or Egyptian coffee, playing backgammon, chatting. Unlike tourist cafes, this place is completely geared towards locals. If you want to sit and have a drink as a tourist, you are usually welcome, but you should respect the dynamics of the environment.
Sitting in an ahwa and sipping a small, strong Egyptian coffee is one of the best ways to feel the rhythm of Dahar. Just observe. How people interact and how the flow of daily life is. This makes you feel like you are there as a visitor and not as a tourist.
The Art of Bargaining
When shopping in Dahar’s markets, bargaining is part of the job and even a form of cultural interaction. Prices are usually not fixed (especially in non-touristy places), so expect some haggling. The important thing is to be respectful and friendly. Instead of being pushy or insistent, see the process as a pleasant dialog. A good starting point is usually to start with half or two-thirds of the price the seller quoted. Even if you can’t agree, you can smile, thank them and leave. They will usually follow you and make a new offer, or you may find a better price in another shop.
What to Wear?
Dahar is more conservative than other parts of Hurghada. It is important to be respectful in this area where the locals live. For women, it is best to wear loose clothing that covers the shoulders and knees. Long skirts, loose pants and t-shirts or shirts are ideal. For men, it is better to wear long pants instead of shorts. This way you show respect to the local culture and you will feel more comfortable. I usually carry a light shawl or pareo, for when entering places like mosques.
Best Time to go?
Dahar’s markets are at their liveliest in the early morning, especially the fish market. Generally, the activity continues in the afternoon, but it may be more comfortable to visit before the midday heat or in the cool of the afternoon. Markets are usually open until late afternoon, but there may be stalls that close early. Weekdays may be quieter than weekends.
Communication and negotiation
Most vendors will know basic English words, but knowing some simple Arabic words will make your job much easier and break the ice with the locals: “Hello” (Ahlan), ‘Thank you’ (Shukran), ‘How much?’ (Kam da?), ‘Expensive’ (Ghalee), ‘Cheap’ (Rekhees), ‘No’ (Laa), ‘Yes’ (Na’am), ‘Goodbye’ (Ma’a salama). Be friendly and patient when bargaining. Make your offer, listen to the seller’s counter-offer and try to meet in the middle. Remember, this is a game and both parties are expected to enjoy it.
Safety Tips
Dahar is generally a safe place, but as in any crowded bazaar, be careful with your bag and valuables. You may encounter overzealous vendors, politely decline and move on. If you feel uncomfortable, calmly walk away. Generally the locals are very friendly to foreigners, but there may be some who pay too much attention to you because you are a tourist. Take it naturally and relax. Remember to drink plenty of water, especially in the hot months.
A visit here will add a whole new dimension to your Hurghada experience. It offers you a piece of the real Egypt. If, like me, you love to discover the soul of a place, then dive into the dusty, vibrant and authentic streets of Dahar. You won’t regret it. Maybe there, in front of a spice stall, you’ll be greeted with a smile you’ll never forget. Isn’t that what traveling is all about? I hope you will visit Dahar one day and have this unique experience in person. Ma’a salama!